Sunday, February 27, 2011

The Rat Race in Shanghai

I've been here for a month. Shanghai is so big and so small all at once. One one hand, it's such a huge city that the chances of running into people you know are slim to none. On the other hand, if you're an out-of-towner like me and a patron to a select handful of venues, you're bound to run into the same people over and over again. And what makes Shanghai even smaller is that these people will know your friends and your friends' friends, and eventually your family, so that you become inextricably tied.

There's a giant rat race going on in Shanghai. My feeling is that not many people are willing to admit it because they're active participants. It's not necessarily even a race to the finish, because people hardly ever finish the race. It's about how many days a week you go partying. How expensive your watch is. What part of town your apartment is in. How many girls you slept with. The funny thing about this race is that there's no clear goal to the finish. And regardless of what category you're leading in, or how many categories you're leading in, there's always someone you know, or a friend of yours knows, who is ahead by a mile. 

Most people burn out...

In order to survive in this city, you need to treat it as a final destination rather than a stop. Then again, if it is a stop, make sure you get out before it's too late; before the booze, the girls, the other temptations which I won't venture to utter, the nights, the days, the everything grab hold of you and never let you go.

Some give up before it's too late and go back to where they came from. Others die, and their remains turn to the contagious dust we breathe walking down the streets every day.

Thursday, February 24, 2011

TianZiFang

Wow! I can't believe it's been nearly two weeks since I last posted! Coincidentally, I starting working two weeks ago. A lot has happened since then. In fact, so much has happened that one post won't suffice.

Work is good. My direct manager is still abroad on business (and has been ever since I started), so work has been pretty chill. That said, I have been busy. The hours are flexible, which is definitely a plus. But having to deal with people in the US and Europe all the time mean really early and really late conference calls, which I'm not a big fan of.

So my sister was right in telling me that "there's more to Shanghai than food." But only partially...

Over the weekend, I did get a chance to visit TianZiFang (田子方) again.


And rather than just walk around talking pictures like I did last time, I actually had dinner in one of the restaurants, looked around some of the shops, and bought a painting!

Here's a steak I had. Doesn't look that good, didn't taste that good either. TianZiFang is definitely a tourist trap. A good place to take a date and all that, but the prices are jacked pretty high up there.


The tiramisu cheesecake was a different story. Looked a lot better, and tasted a lot better, but still really pricey.


Contrary to popular opinion, you cannot bargain everywhere in Shanghai. I dare say this shop that sold random communist memorabilia is not very Shanghai...


One thing I did notice was that the shop was pretty much empty and the shelves were very well stocked. Know why? Cuz 90 RMB (that's about $13.50 USD) for a leather bound journal is NOT a steal... Especially if you can't bargain.


So this is the painting I got. I didn't know this when I got it, but it's actually a very famous painting by a very famous Chinese artist. As it happens, the original one has a blue background. But I think this one is much nicer.

And a funny thing about the price. Originally 500 RMB, I talked it down to 400 RMB and paid a 100 RMB deposit. On the day I went to go pick it up, I gave the guy 200 RMB and took the painting and left. Who needs haggling when you know how to swindle?!?

Sunday, February 13, 2011

Vacation is over

But all is not lost. Sort of like flipping to a new mini-chapter in my life. A 'mini-chapter' because I flipped a 'real' chapter about two weeks ago when I got to Shanghai. Anyway, after dicking around for a while, I'm ready to get workin'.

And what better way to start than spending some quality time with family, meeting some new friends, getting a massage after dinner, and capping it off with some baijiu before calling it a night?!

A couple of new and old dishes to introduce... Lunch was with yet another big group of relatives at 海合滙, a decent joint out on TangShan Road. It's a seafood place, but really, just about everything was good.


Sliced pork. It looks really fatty, but didn't taste like that at all. The skin is crunchy, yet the meat was melt-in-your-mouth...


Sweet rice stuffed lotus roots soaked in honey. I figured out that this is a pretty common appetizer in Shanghai restaurants. Just about every place I've been to has had it.


Shrimp in salt. Not sure why they do it like this, actually. You take the shrimp and dab it in a bowl of water before eating so the salt washes off. My grand-aunt is semi-senile and just ate it straight, then complained about how salty it was. We had a good laugh around the table at that one.


This one's pretty special. The name of this dish is "seeds of the ocean." They're just miniature clams, but really do look like seeds. You kind of put them in your mouth like you would sunflower seeds and use your tongue to get the clam out.

And last, but not least...


Pho!!! From Pho Asia on 85 FuMin Road. Sort of an expat place, but without the exorbitant prices. The noodles are a bit wider than the ones I'm used to in SoCal; good nonetheless.

I'm going to bed. Full day tomorrow. Goodnight Shanghai!

Friday, February 11, 2011

Short and sweet

I am enamored of this sprawling city, with its millions of inhabitants, its forest of modern skyscrapers, its dense traffic, its bustling life and nocturnal energy.

--Chol-Hwan Kang

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Hot and cold in Shanghai

No, not the weather. Just a list of things I love and hate about this city...

I love:
  1. the public transportation here. The subway is by far my favorite, followed closely by walking. I won't take a cab if I can help it, and even they are relatively inexpensive. Maybe when it gets really hot I'll opt for taxis more often, but for now, the subway is just fine. I haven't gotten around to riding the bus yet, but I hear they're even more convenient. 
  2. how it's winter and the girls are wearing leggings or stockings with miniskirts. Although every once in a while, I'll see some girl with nice legs and find out her face looks like she's pushing 50. *Shudders* UGH! 
  3. that DVDs of movies still in theaters are $0.70 cents; to own! Great quality, and you can pass them on to your friends afterward. No late fees either. Beat that, Redbox!
  4. to haggle! Although I still need to hone my skills. I bought a router, at a department store no less, and asked the saleslady what else I can get. 20% off? I want more. An ethernet cord? I want more. A pair of headphones? That's more like it!
  5. the energy this place has, especially at night. Also something I need to work on. Got laughed at by a cabbie for leaving XinTianDi at 9:30PM... "I'm jetlagged, goddamnit!" I told him.

I hate:
  1. that there are hardly any bookstores around! Don't the Shanghainese read?!? Or does everyone just read online? The "bookstore" culture is pretty different from that of Taiwan with its Eslites and the US with Borders and Barnes & Noble. 
  2. it when I'm about to get on the subway and people cut in front of me. And the people behind me push and shove to get ahead. And once the doors open, it's like musical chairs and everyone rushes to get a seat. Concepts of graciousness, courtesy, and consideration are clearly absent...
  3. the abominable customer service at certain restaurants. It can literally take 15 minutes before a waiter finally notices your crazily waving hand, and another 10 minutes before he brings you some more tea.
  4. that Facebook and Twitter and YouTube are blocked, sites that aren't blocked are slow, and that I can't check-in anywhere!
  5. how public restrooms charge for toilet paper. And most restaurants charge you for napkins, and some even for water! It's tap water!

Anyway,  I leave you with two photos I took at the Shanghai Ocean Aquarium. Completely unrelated, I know. Just thought I'd share.


Sunday, February 6, 2011

Where people gather

China is the most populous country in the world with 1.3 billion people. And Shanghai, it's most populous city, has roughly 18 million people! So yeah, Shanghai's a big place! But really, where do all these people go?

Observation: Aside from every shop and every street corner and every subway stop and everywhere else, there are four places where there are, literally, people mountain people sea. In no particular order, because it really depends on what's going on and what time of the day or night it is, I present the four places where I've seen the most people gather.

1. Shanghai Railway Station


Grand Central Terminal in New York pretty much dwarfs this place. So just imagine, I dunno, 10 times the amount of people crammed into a place that has 1/7th the number of platforms as Grand Central.


It's also connected to the subway lines via an underground tunnel lined with shops. People hustling to get from one place to the next; a very common scene in Shanghai.


I've always been a big fan of trains. This was taken on the way to a restaurant to meet some relatives for lunch. Shot through a cruddy window, so excuse the quality.

2. People's Square

On a consistent basis, People's Square is probably the most crowded place in Shanghai. Again, several subways feed into it. The following is one of the many hideous mascots Chinese artists have rendered, this one representing the subway.


The Square is where most of Shanghai's government buildings are housed. Many prominent Shanghai landmarks can be found here, including People's Park, Tomorrow Square, the Shanghai Art Museum, and the Shanghai Grand Theater (pictured), just to name a few.


I caught a show at the Grand Theater back in December of 2003. Can't remember anything about it except the place was HUGE.

For foreigners, apparently, there's a popular joint called Barbarosa right around from People's Park. Look Em, I found it!


3. Nanjing Road

Third on my list is Nanjing Road, sort of the Times Square of Shanghai. It's one of the busiest shopping streets and is often mentioned in songs and films. It also serves as the main artery connecting People's Square and The Bund (#4 on my list). It's rumored that there are over one million visitors per day!


A large part of the road is pedestrian only. The place really lights up at night. And there are even small trolleys that haul visitors along the main shopping areas.


Which takes us to...

4. The Bund

Probably one of the most photographed places in Shanghai, it's also one of the most famous tourist destinations in China. I vividly remember some of the architecture from my previous visit to Shanghai nearly 9 years ago.


It's a strip along the HuangPu River where one side you'll have old buildings that used to house international settlement trading houses dating back to the late-1800s, and the other with the more modern high-rises, some as recent as a few years ago.



Much like the Star Ferry that crosses Victoria Harbor in Hong Kong, a great many locals ferry from PuDong to PuXi everyday. Of course, tourists are part of the crowds as well.


What used to be 0.50RMB cent ride is now 2RMB. Comparably, a taxi would run about 15RMB, and the subway 3RMB-4RMB.

The Bund is also a popular hangout for Shanghai beauties.


This was taken on the ferry. Ask nicely, and they shall oblige.

Saturday, February 5, 2011

Assimilating

I've been in Shanghai for about a week now, but it feels like it's been much longer than that. The weather has already changed from frigid to where a light sweater is enough. I've made some new friends, saw some old ones, and have even been hit on a few times at clubs, pubs, and whatnot. Just about all of my relatives have graciously taken me out to lunch or dinner. I've walked, taxied, or taken the subway to so many places around town that I can't even remember. I've eaten egg tarts from four different places, and yes, have the stomach to show for it.

Most of the administrative stuff has been taken care of as well. Got my physical exam results, temporary residence permit, bank account, and cell phone. I just have to wait for Chinese New Year to end so that I can get my work permit processed before starting my new job. 

All this in the first week! 

A couple of things I noticed so far... The standard of living in Shanghai is not cheap. Sure, I can consume local, and that would be cheap. But if I want to use or eat the things I did back home, it can add up pretty fast. For example: Steak here is really expensive. If China had more cows and less people, it probably wouldn't be. But as it is, I'll be consuming a lot less red meat here. Sensodyne is really expensive. I'm not going to use some domestic brand toothpaste, so that's just something I'll have to live with. Anything with a foreign brand (eg. Gap, DKNY, Coach, Canon, Starbucks), and you can expect it to cost 2X - 3X more than in the US.

Regardless, I think it's a place I'm going to grow to love.


This is MaoMing South Road, otherwise known as Bar Street, two minutes from where I live. I haven't gone yet, except to ask one of the bars with a big flat screen TV if they will be showing the Superbowl. To my delight, they will be.

Guess where I'll be Monday morning at 7:30AM Shanghai time?

Thursday, February 3, 2011

Jardin de Jade

It pretty much goes without saying that people from Shanghai have all heard of Jardin de Jade (蘇折匯). It's one of the higher-end restaurants that serves Shanghai cuisine. Sort of the Sam Woo of Shanghai. The food was great, but they're really about the presentation. My pictures don't nearly do them enough justice.


I think these are anchovies, but I'm not sure. Either way, they're deep fried to the point that the fins and bones are edible, and quite delicious.


A little something to whet the appetite before the "real" dishes start coming. Lotus with vinegar, and very sweet kumquat with a special sour sauce.


Slow roasted duck. I know... Just one leg, and I bet it was really expensive. The meat was unbelievably tender. You're supposed to dip it in sweet and sour sauce and wrap it with a bun. I think that would have ruined the texture of the crunchy skin against the soft meat, so I just ate it straight.


Veggies. The stuff in the middle is mushroom. Cathy used to make a dish like this. It just didn't look as good as this.


These noodles were pretty amazing. When the waiter first brought it to our table and set it next to me, I could still smell the dough!


And, of course, 小籠包. I got a scald on my tongue from eating one of these, but it was worth it. The skin on these things are so thin, it's basically see-through. My only complaint is that I wish they put it over cabbage leaves instead of the baking sheet it's on here. Just looks so unauthentic!

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Slummin' round town during CNY

The World Expo 2010 held in Shanghai officially ended back in October of last year, but some of the permanent structures still remain. In fact, the Chinese exhibit will continue to run all the way until May of this year. I took the subway out to Pudong and got off at YaoHua Road station just to walk around and take some pictures.



I didn't actually go in that day because I'd only brought my sunglasses. From what I'm told, it was crazy crowded with lines up to 8 hours for a single exhibit. As you can see, it's pretty much cleared out now.

Here's a dude hawking yams on a street corner. I've been warned to stay way from the street-side vendors.


He's got a tough job. The entire country of China basically shuts down for an entire week during Chinese New Year. That means cabs are hard to hail, less people walking the streets, shops close early or don't open at all, and the cost of massages, haircuts, and just about anything you can think of basically doubles.

And, Betty, I've got one of these too.


Know what does stay open though, is coffee shops. This 85˚C is 24-hours. The business is a far cry from the one in Irvine, but the iced sea-salt coffee is just as good!


I'm a big fan of bamboo. Something very graceful about them, and soothing for me to look at. Sort of the Central Park of Shanghai, Century Park is home to various British, Japanese, and Chinese gardening styles. Normal ticket prices are 10RMB, but of course 20RMB this week due to CNY.


The park is well known for three very different reasons: 1) Lovers go there to make out, 2) families take kids there for bike and boat riding, and 3) businessmen go there to close deals. Go figure...


It's Chinese New Years Eve tonight. I got to have dinner with my 2nd aunt (on my father's side) and her family. A good bunch of people. Many people in my family consider this aunt to be an evil witch. Fact is, she kind of looks like one. But she's not bad, just kind of likes to pry and gossip a bit too much.


The food was decent, but the service sucked. The restaurant was packed to the roof, and there weren't nearly enough waiters around.


Sesame oil soaked pork skin appetizers.


River shrimp with vinegar.


Monster clams with rice noodles and garlic. HEAVY garlic.

Midnight is nearing, and it sounds like a cannon going off every millisecond here in Shanghai. The sky is just as bright, if not brighter than, Vegas.

Here's a view from my balcony of what's going on.


Oh yeah, got myself a little Chinese New Years present. Oh yeahhhhhhhhh!


HAPPY CHINESE NEW YEAR EVERYONE!

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

"Outta my way!" food

One of the things that will take me a while to get used to... It's hard to explain. In the US, you go to a restaurant, you wait to get seated. If there's no wait, the receptionist at the counter takes you to your table. If there is a wait, you're likely told how long it's probably going to take, or you're given a pager that vibrates when your table is ready. You can throw all that out the window when you're in Shanghai!

If you want a table here and it requires waiting, you look around the restaurant for people who are about done with their food, and you stand next to them waiting for them to finish so you can grab their seat as soon as they stand up. More likely than not, especially if it's a popular local eatery, you'll be jostling for position with other people who are after the same seat. And you better be on the ready like hitting that button in Jeopardy! As soon as those guys even look like they're ready to get going, you either gotta put your hand on the table, throw something of yours down on that table, or give the guy standing next to you a fierce glare as if to say, "You're dead meat if you think you're sittin' down before me!" Basically, anything to mark your territory.

I haven't quite perfected my glare yet, so I've pretty much been the chump every time I've had to wait to get a table. Nonetheless, if an establishment warrants this kind of behavior, it probably means it's got decent food at economical cost.

Alas...



Numbingly spicy beef noodle soup at YongHeDaWang. This place is down the street from where I live at the corner of YongJia Road and RuiJing Road. It's actually best known for its soy milk and baked sesame seed coated cake and deep-fried breadstick combos.


The name of this place escapes me, but it's basically Chinese fast food. This simmer-fried pork lunch combo comes with veggies, rice, steamed egg, and chicken wings; all for less than $3.00 USD.



I LOOOOVE egg tarts! And this place, Lillian Cake Shop, under a pedestrian bridge in the central shopping district of XuJiaHui makes the best egg tarts and cheese tarts (left) that I've ever had. They're roughly $0.50 cents each, so not that cheap. But absolutely mouthwatering!


Think steamed pork dumplings at DinTaiFung are the best? You're probably right. But this place at 1500 ZhongShan South Road is just as good and cost one-tenth as much. They also do a pretty crazy spicy stir-fried threaded pork noodle!


I finally got a chance to savor a bona fide Shanghai home-cooked meal, courtesy of my late-grandfather's third cousin's son-in-law.



Does that look good or what?! No pushing or shoving here, but definitely food worth fighting over.